DomesticGoddess
10-27-2004, 12:22 PM
First and foremost before you start this project, check for buried cables or pipes. Most utility companies will come and mark these with spray paint if you request it.
Laying out your fence is pretty basic in theory. You stake out where your fence will go, and stretch a string between them. This will serve as your guideline for installing the posts.
Now you must dig your post holes. One way to dig your post holes is with a clamshell digger. This is pretty hard work, and if you've got a lot of holes or hard ground you should rent a power auger. It usually take two people to run it. Even with the power auger, digging post holes is tough work. In most areas, you want your posts below the frost line, so when the ground heaves from frost, the post will stay in place. Our building codes specify that posts be dug down 42 inches. We actually only need the corner posts, or posts around a gate that deep. For our middle posts, or "line posts", we dug down 36 inches. Obviously, in warmer areas, the frost line isn't this deep. A good rule-of-thumb is that you should bury about a half of the corner posts, and about a third of the line posts underground. You should fill the bottom of the post holes with concrete - quick-setting concrete works well.
Set the corner posts for a chain-link fence first. Let the concrete set up a bit and then make your final adjustments so they're plumb in both directions.
Once the concrete is dry, use the corner posts to string lines to line up the middle posts. Usually chain-link fence posts are spaced about 10 feet apart.
Make sure your concrete is totally cure before installing the fencing fabric because this puts a lot of tension on the posts. An alternative to setting your posts in concrete is to use an anchoring system with stakes. Using this method you can set the posts to the exact height you need. Posts set in concrete need to be cut off at the right height with a pipe cutter. The top rail goes through loop caps on top of the line posts. This rail forms the top frame that the fencing stretches across. Roll the fencing out on the outside of the fence. If you need to extend the fencing you can weave two pieces together with a single strand. Attach the fabric to a post at one end of the fence. You do this with a tension bar and tension bands. Loosely tie all the fencing to the top rail. Then stretch the fencing by hand as far as you can.
Use a winch, made especially for this type of job, to pull the fencing until it's tight. Then permanently attach the fencing to the posts and top rail.
Laying out your fence is pretty basic in theory. You stake out where your fence will go, and stretch a string between them. This will serve as your guideline for installing the posts.
Now you must dig your post holes. One way to dig your post holes is with a clamshell digger. This is pretty hard work, and if you've got a lot of holes or hard ground you should rent a power auger. It usually take two people to run it. Even with the power auger, digging post holes is tough work. In most areas, you want your posts below the frost line, so when the ground heaves from frost, the post will stay in place. Our building codes specify that posts be dug down 42 inches. We actually only need the corner posts, or posts around a gate that deep. For our middle posts, or "line posts", we dug down 36 inches. Obviously, in warmer areas, the frost line isn't this deep. A good rule-of-thumb is that you should bury about a half of the corner posts, and about a third of the line posts underground. You should fill the bottom of the post holes with concrete - quick-setting concrete works well.
Set the corner posts for a chain-link fence first. Let the concrete set up a bit and then make your final adjustments so they're plumb in both directions.
Once the concrete is dry, use the corner posts to string lines to line up the middle posts. Usually chain-link fence posts are spaced about 10 feet apart.
Make sure your concrete is totally cure before installing the fencing fabric because this puts a lot of tension on the posts. An alternative to setting your posts in concrete is to use an anchoring system with stakes. Using this method you can set the posts to the exact height you need. Posts set in concrete need to be cut off at the right height with a pipe cutter. The top rail goes through loop caps on top of the line posts. This rail forms the top frame that the fencing stretches across. Roll the fencing out on the outside of the fence. If you need to extend the fencing you can weave two pieces together with a single strand. Attach the fabric to a post at one end of the fence. You do this with a tension bar and tension bands. Loosely tie all the fencing to the top rail. Then stretch the fencing by hand as far as you can.
Use a winch, made especially for this type of job, to pull the fencing until it's tight. Then permanently attach the fencing to the posts and top rail.