TDA
10-27-2004, 02:45 PM
Installing molding can be a simple project
Molding hides slight imperfections where corners meet and gives a room a finished look. Installing molding is easier than many people believe, especially when you use corner blocks to eliminate miter cuts. The most important tool when working with molding is patience. Never try to rush trim work. Remember the old adage, measure twice and cut once.
Determine how much molding you need
1. Measure the room at the height where each molding will go to determine the number and the length of the pieces you'll need. Jot these measurements down.
2. Molding usually comes in 8', 10', 12' and 16' lengths. Looking at your list, calculate what lengths of molding will cover the area with the least waste. For example, if you have one wall that is 9' and another that is 6', using a 16' piece of molding will yield both the 9' and 6' pieces, only leaving 1' of scrap molding. However, if you used a 10' piece for the 9' wall and an 8' piece for the 6' wall, you'd be left with three feet of scrap.
3. Count the number of inside corners in the room to determine the number of inside corner blocks you will need. Do the same for the outside corners. Plan on using divider blocks in the center of the wall for any measurement greater than 16 feet.
Apply the finish
1. Apply the finish to the molding before installing it. You'll save time because you can apply the finish faster. Find a dry, well-ventilated and dust-free area to apply the finish to your molding.
2. Put down a drop cloth and apply the finish according to the manufacturers' instructions. Apply the finish to the molding in the same order you intend to install the pieces. Then you won't have to spend as much time waiting for pieces to dry.
3. Set aside a small amount of the finish to touch up any raw edges.
Install the molding
1. Predrill holes for nails to avoid splitting the molding or corner blocks. Predrill holes in the inside corner blocks and nail them to the inside corners of the room. Try to drill the holes so the molding will cover them. If the room has any outside corners, predrill holes in the outside corner blocks and nail them to the outside corners of the room.
2. Measure the distance between the first two corner blocks. Cut a piece of molding approximately 1/4" longer. To get a good square cut, use a miter box and a fine-tooth handsaw.
3. Butt one end of the molding tight against one of the corner blocks. Lap the other end over the other corner block and trace the edge of the corner block onto the back of the molding. Take the molding down and cut it on the outside of the line to ensure a snug fit.
4. Locate and lightly mark the wall studs. Touch up the raw edges with a light coat of finish and fit it between the corner blocks. Predrill the molding at every other wall stud and nail into place. To avoid denting the molding, use a nail set to finish driving the nails home. You may need someone to help hold long pieces while you drill and nail. Continue this process until all the molding is up. Use wood putty or a filler stick to cover any noticeable holes.
5. In the event you have a span between two corner blocks longer than the molding, simply center a divider block between the two corner blocks. Install the molding as you would between corner blocks.
6. In order to establish a level line for a chair rail, measure up from the floor to where the bottom of the chair rail will be and make a mark. Use a level as a straight edge and lightly draw a line around the room. As you install the chair rail, make sure it is even with this line.
7. If you decide to install your molding without corner blocks, you must make a coped cut at each inside corner.
Building up molding
1. Built-up molding is usually associated with intricate crown moldings on vaulted ceilings or the ornate mantels of colonial mansions. Although those patterns may overpower the average home today, you can use the same techniques to design your own personalized molding.
2. Once you decide on the profile for your built-up molding, determine which piece should go up first. Select the most rigid piece or a piece that butts to a rigid surface like the floor or ceiling. Starting with the most rigid piece ensures straight lines and eliminates the flex that smaller moldings can have. Next determine the order for installing the rest of the pieces.
3. Install the first piece as you would a single profile. Install each subsequent profile in its entirety before going on to the next. u
Molding hides slight imperfections where corners meet and gives a room a finished look. Installing molding is easier than many people believe, especially when you use corner blocks to eliminate miter cuts. The most important tool when working with molding is patience. Never try to rush trim work. Remember the old adage, measure twice and cut once.
Determine how much molding you need
1. Measure the room at the height where each molding will go to determine the number and the length of the pieces you'll need. Jot these measurements down.
2. Molding usually comes in 8', 10', 12' and 16' lengths. Looking at your list, calculate what lengths of molding will cover the area with the least waste. For example, if you have one wall that is 9' and another that is 6', using a 16' piece of molding will yield both the 9' and 6' pieces, only leaving 1' of scrap molding. However, if you used a 10' piece for the 9' wall and an 8' piece for the 6' wall, you'd be left with three feet of scrap.
3. Count the number of inside corners in the room to determine the number of inside corner blocks you will need. Do the same for the outside corners. Plan on using divider blocks in the center of the wall for any measurement greater than 16 feet.
Apply the finish
1. Apply the finish to the molding before installing it. You'll save time because you can apply the finish faster. Find a dry, well-ventilated and dust-free area to apply the finish to your molding.
2. Put down a drop cloth and apply the finish according to the manufacturers' instructions. Apply the finish to the molding in the same order you intend to install the pieces. Then you won't have to spend as much time waiting for pieces to dry.
3. Set aside a small amount of the finish to touch up any raw edges.
Install the molding
1. Predrill holes for nails to avoid splitting the molding or corner blocks. Predrill holes in the inside corner blocks and nail them to the inside corners of the room. Try to drill the holes so the molding will cover them. If the room has any outside corners, predrill holes in the outside corner blocks and nail them to the outside corners of the room.
2. Measure the distance between the first two corner blocks. Cut a piece of molding approximately 1/4" longer. To get a good square cut, use a miter box and a fine-tooth handsaw.
3. Butt one end of the molding tight against one of the corner blocks. Lap the other end over the other corner block and trace the edge of the corner block onto the back of the molding. Take the molding down and cut it on the outside of the line to ensure a snug fit.
4. Locate and lightly mark the wall studs. Touch up the raw edges with a light coat of finish and fit it between the corner blocks. Predrill the molding at every other wall stud and nail into place. To avoid denting the molding, use a nail set to finish driving the nails home. You may need someone to help hold long pieces while you drill and nail. Continue this process until all the molding is up. Use wood putty or a filler stick to cover any noticeable holes.
5. In the event you have a span between two corner blocks longer than the molding, simply center a divider block between the two corner blocks. Install the molding as you would between corner blocks.
6. In order to establish a level line for a chair rail, measure up from the floor to where the bottom of the chair rail will be and make a mark. Use a level as a straight edge and lightly draw a line around the room. As you install the chair rail, make sure it is even with this line.
7. If you decide to install your molding without corner blocks, you must make a coped cut at each inside corner.
Building up molding
1. Built-up molding is usually associated with intricate crown moldings on vaulted ceilings or the ornate mantels of colonial mansions. Although those patterns may overpower the average home today, you can use the same techniques to design your own personalized molding.
2. Once you decide on the profile for your built-up molding, determine which piece should go up first. Select the most rigid piece or a piece that butts to a rigid surface like the floor or ceiling. Starting with the most rigid piece ensures straight lines and eliminates the flex that smaller moldings can have. Next determine the order for installing the rest of the pieces.
3. Install the first piece as you would a single profile. Install each subsequent profile in its entirety before going on to the next. u