Re: Bad Solenoid on riding mower? --> Blown Rod!

[Teffy]

After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
economic sense to do so?

It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.

Thanks,
Teffy

WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote in message news:<49920a43.0306181803.3b7377d7@posting.google.com>...
> While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
> is 15 years old.
>
> When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
> click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
> start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.
>
> The wiring diagram is shown here:
> http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gravely-Wiring-Diagram-big.jpg
>
> The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.
>
> When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
> 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
> 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge
> wires).
> 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.
>
> As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
> position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
> neutral, my butt is in the seat.
>
> The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
> and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts.
>
> What do you think is wrong with the mower?
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote:
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
I think you can get a new 16hp engine for much less than that. (?)

--
GO# 40
-------------------------------------------------------------
http://NewsReader.Com/
50 GB/Month

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote:
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
I think you can get a new 16hp engine for much less than that. (?)

--
GO# 40
-------------------------------------------------------------
http://NewsReader.Com/
50 GB/Month

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote:
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
I think you can get a new 16hp engine for much less than that. (?)

--
GO# 40
-------------------------------------------------------------
http://NewsReader.Com/
50 GB/Month

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote:
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
I think you can get a new 16hp engine for much less than that. (?)

--
GO# 40
-------------------------------------------------------------
http://NewsReader.Com/
50 GB/Month

[Leroy]

The Shop determined from that info that the rod is blown?
No oil indicates a leak or it was drained. You have not stated that you
owned it from day one or that you just bought it. The juice to the starter
is what you need The soft click may be a solonoid. The on to start click IS
a solonoid to the starter. The engine needs oil. Try to rotate the engine by
hand. A single cylinder engine with a blown (Broken)rod will most likely
spin very freely If it spins like it has compression don't believe the shop.
If it spins like it doesn't have comression. then the shop may have had more
info than we do here.
I have to suppose that your not the owner or you would have known what you
did last with the oil. It may smoke and you would have known that.

"Teffy" <WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com> wrote in message
news:49920a43.0307010756.5a4a7224@posting.google.c om...
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
> WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote in message
news:<49920a43.0306181803.3b7377d7@posting.google.com>...
> > While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
> > is 15 years old.
> >
> > When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
> > click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
> > start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.
> >
> > The wiring diagram is shown here:
> > http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gravely-Wiring-Diagram-big.jpg
> >
> > The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.
> >
> > When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
> > 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
> > 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge
> > wires).
> > 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.
> >
> > As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
> > position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
> > neutral, my butt is in the seat.
> >
> > The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
> > and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts.
> >
> > What do you think is wrong with the mower?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Teffy

[Leroy]

The Shop determined from that info that the rod is blown?
No oil indicates a leak or it was drained. You have not stated that you
owned it from day one or that you just bought it. The juice to the starter
is what you need The soft click may be a solonoid. The on to start click IS
a solonoid to the starter. The engine needs oil. Try to rotate the engine by
hand. A single cylinder engine with a blown (Broken)rod will most likely
spin very freely If it spins like it has compression don't believe the shop.
If it spins like it doesn't have comression. then the shop may have had more
info than we do here.
I have to suppose that your not the owner or you would have known what you
did last with the oil. It may smoke and you would have known that.

"Teffy" <WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com> wrote in message
news:49920a43.0307010756.5a4a7224@posting.google.c om...
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
> WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote in message
news:<49920a43.0306181803.3b7377d7@posting.google.com>...
> > While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
> > is 15 years old.
> >
> > When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
> > click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
> > start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.
> >
> > The wiring diagram is shown here:
> > http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gravely-Wiring-Diagram-big.jpg
> >
> > The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.
> >
> > When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
> > 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
> > 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge
> > wires).
> > 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.
> >
> > As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
> > position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
> > neutral, my butt is in the seat.
> >
> > The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
> > and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts.
> >
> > What do you think is wrong with the mower?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Teffy

[Leroy]

The Shop determined from that info that the rod is blown?
No oil indicates a leak or it was drained. You have not stated that you
owned it from day one or that you just bought it. The juice to the starter
is what you need The soft click may be a solonoid. The on to start click IS
a solonoid to the starter. The engine needs oil. Try to rotate the engine by
hand. A single cylinder engine with a blown (Broken)rod will most likely
spin very freely If it spins like it has compression don't believe the shop.
If it spins like it doesn't have comression. then the shop may have had more
info than we do here.
I have to suppose that your not the owner or you would have known what you
did last with the oil. It may smoke and you would have known that.

"Teffy" <WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com> wrote in message
news:49920a43.0307010756.5a4a7224@posting.google.c om...
> After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't
> even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair
> shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block
> is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make
> economic sense to do so?
>
> It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000
> new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy
>
> WGSGNUAYHTTE@spammotel.com (Teffy) wrote in message
news:<49920a43.0306181803.3b7377d7@posting.google.com>...
> > While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
> > is 15 years old.
> >
> > When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
> > click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
> > start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.
> >
> > The wiring diagram is shown here:
> > http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gravely-Wiring-Diagram-big.jpg
> >
> > The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.
> >
> > When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
> > 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
> > 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge
> > wires).
> > 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.
> >
> > As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
> > position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
> > neutral, my butt is in the seat.
> >
> > The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
> > and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts.
> >
> > What do you think is wrong with the mower?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Teffy