Snow Mold Cure ?

[Scotty]

Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of my
grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand how to
prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic fungicide
just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I didn't last
year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to know how to
cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in the long run it
would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of fungicide every fall.
Thanks a bunch William

--
The sick in soul insist it is humanity that is sick, and they are the
surgeons to operate on it. They want to turn the world into a sick room. And
when they get humanity strapped on the operating table, they operate on it
with an axe.

[Steveo]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
> my grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand
> how to prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic
> fungicide just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I
> didn't last year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to
> know how to cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in
> the long run it would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of
> fungicide every fall. Thanks a bunch William
>
You may need to introduce more resistant turfgrass variety's, sounds
like your blend is susceptible to it. You're right, bayleton is not
at all cheap.

Think it's too thick to slice seed some resistant variety's of blue
and ryegrass this Aug? <depending on where you live>

How many sq ft do you have?

[Steveo]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
> my grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand
> how to prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic
> fungicide just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I
> didn't last year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to
> know how to cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in
> the long run it would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of
> fungicide every fall. Thanks a bunch William
>
You may need to introduce more resistant turfgrass variety's, sounds
like your blend is susceptible to it. You're right, bayleton is not
at all cheap.

Think it's too thick to slice seed some resistant variety's of blue
and ryegrass this Aug? <depending on where you live>

How many sq ft do you have?

[Steveo]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
> my grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand
> how to prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic
> fungicide just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I
> didn't last year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to
> know how to cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in
> the long run it would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of
> fungicide every fall. Thanks a bunch William
>
You may need to introduce more resistant turfgrass variety's, sounds
like your blend is susceptible to it. You're right, bayleton is not
at all cheap.

Think it's too thick to slice seed some resistant variety's of blue
and ryegrass this Aug? <depending on where you live>

How many sq ft do you have?

[Steveo]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
> my grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand
> how to prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic
> fungicide just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I
> didn't last year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to
> know how to cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in
> the long run it would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of
> fungicide every fall. Thanks a bunch William
>
You may need to introduce more resistant turfgrass variety's, sounds
like your blend is susceptible to it. You're right, bayleton is not
at all cheap.

Think it's too thick to slice seed some resistant variety's of blue
and ryegrass this Aug? <depending on where you live>

How many sq ft do you have?

[Peter H]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:GoCdnVgGdMe5qDDdRVn-iQ@adelphia.com...
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
my
> grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand how
to
> prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic fungicide
> just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I didn't
last
> year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to know how to
> cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in the long run
it
> would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of fungicide every fall.
> Thanks a bunch William
>
> --
> The sick in soul insist it is humanity that is sick, and they are the
> surgeons to operate on it. They want to turn the world into a sick room.
And
> when they get humanity strapped on the operating table, they operate on it
> with an axe.
>
>

I suspect that the cure for your problem lies more with what you do with
your lawn in the summer than in the fall or winter. The cure won't cost
more, in fact it is cheaper.

My suggestion would be to avoid all fertilization of the lawn in the summer
months and keep the watering to a very minimum. Make certain that your
nitrogen applications for the entire season are equal to or less than 4
pounds/ 1,000 square feet. ( that's nitrogen, not fertilizer). For your last
cut in the fall take it down lower than your regular cut. Get it down to
about one inch.

Good luck,

Peter H

[Peter H]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:GoCdnVgGdMe5qDDdRVn-iQ@adelphia.com...
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
my
> grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand how
to
> prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic fungicide
> just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I didn't
last
> year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to know how to
> cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in the long run
it
> would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of fungicide every fall.
> Thanks a bunch William
>
> --
> The sick in soul insist it is humanity that is sick, and they are the
> surgeons to operate on it. They want to turn the world into a sick room.
And
> when they get humanity strapped on the operating table, they operate on it
> with an axe.
>
>

I suspect that the cure for your problem lies more with what you do with
your lawn in the summer than in the fall or winter. The cure won't cost
more, in fact it is cheaper.

My suggestion would be to avoid all fertilization of the lawn in the summer
months and keep the watering to a very minimum. Make certain that your
nitrogen applications for the entire season are equal to or less than 4
pounds/ 1,000 square feet. ( that's nitrogen, not fertilizer). For your last
cut in the fall take it down lower than your regular cut. Get it down to
about one inch.

Good luck,

Peter H

[Peter H]

"Scotty" <Cillyman@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:GoCdnVgGdMe5qDDdRVn-iQ@adelphia.com...
> Every winter I get a type of winter mold that kills off large patches of
my
> grass. Its is a sun and shade mixture for the northeast. I understand how
to
> prevent the mold by putting down expensive amounts of systemic fungicide
> just before the grass goes dormant. If I don't put it down as I didn't
last
> year the mold returns and my lawn is very damaged. I want to know how to
> cure it once and for all. Even if its an expensive cure, in the long run
it
> would be cheap compared to the 120 $ application of fungicide every fall.
> Thanks a bunch William
>
> --
> The sick in soul insist it is humanity that is sick, and they are the
> surgeons to operate on it. They want to turn the world into a sick room.
And
> when they get humanity strapped on the operating table, they operate on it
> with an axe.
>
>

I suspect that the cure for your problem lies more with what you do with
your lawn in the summer than in the fall or winter. The cure won't cost
more, in fact it is cheaper.

My suggestion would be to avoid all fertilization of the lawn in the summer
months and keep the watering to a very minimum. Make certain that your
nitrogen applications for the entire season are equal to or less than 4
pounds/ 1,000 square feet. ( that's nitrogen, not fertilizer). For your last
cut in the fall take it down lower than your regular cut. Get it down to
about one inch.

Good luck,

Peter H